'East Australian Currents' series, Kirra (Coolangatta) QLD 2006.
"The Wild is where we sprang from, eons past, and the Wild is what we spring from day by day. The Wild brings us fully into our eyes and ears and fingertips. Without the Wild, we are asleep in our lives. The Wild is the scrape of rock and shell on our cold bare feet. It's the chill sluice of brine down through our wetsuit; it's the early-morning offshore wind numbing our cheeks, even while the rising sun blinds our vision. The Wild is the approaching dark mass of an outside set, and it is the unseen possibility of a moving mass beneath the surface of the water close around us. The Wild is the ledging square section of surf sucking powerfully up and over a draining reef. To surf is to engage with the Wild, and there is nothing wilder than the lacerating hide and snaggle-toothed mouth of the shark, or the bottomless pitch of a grinding wall of swell for that matter. It is the Wild that makes surf culture such a rich subculture... Surf culture is born out of the Wild - of men and women who seek daily commerce with a morphing landscape of possibilities, of possible rewards and punishments, of long efforts made for fleeting gains. Contact and intimate interaction with ocean waves makes and keeps people alive like almost nothing else. Surfers are alive with the sea, with a crazy wisdom it takes them years to know they have." (Kampion, 2006.)
*This photo was winner of Photofriday's 'The Weekend' noteworthy. Thanks so much for voting for it!
Lens: 17 mm | Aperture: f 10 | Shutter: 1/800 sec | ISO: 400
Categories: Category: [East Australian Currents]