'East Australian Currents' series, Coolangatta QLD 2006.

"The freedom is what's so great about it, I think. I mean there are a variety of reasons I was attracted to surfing, but just being out there, being able to escape it all, I really liked that. There wasn't anything regulated about it; it wasn't a school sport, it wasn't something other people understood. I think that's actually why people came to hate it so much, think we were lazy out there surfing. Because they just didn't understand."(Interview in Coffs Harbour)

Lens: 85 mm | Aperture: f 10 | Shutter: 1/1600 sec | ISO: 400

Categories: Category: [East Australian Currents]